Maru Amdavad – Vibrant Gujarat
Ahmedabad,originally called Karnavati,was given its name after Sultan Ahmed Shah. Legend says that after seeing a hare chase a ferocious dog, the ruler decided to establish his capital here and call it Ahmedabad.
From the magnificient Rani ki Vav… the find of the century, to Adalaj ki Vav, Amdavad ni Gufa, Sabarmati Ashram, Sidi Sayed ni Jali, Calico Museum and many more culturally rich sites, Ahmedabad is truly famous for its diverse cultural heritage.
For lovers of textile, it’s a heaven, where you can source your Patan Patolas, Bhandanis, Mushroo and Ashavali saaris.
For the foodies, one cannot get enough of the delicious Handva, Thepla, Khakra, Shrikhand, Oondhyo and of course the Dhokla.
The best times to visit is either during Navratri (end of September), Uttrayan (January 14th) which is the kite flying festival or during the colourful festival of Holi (March).
Thanks to Prime Minister, Shri Narendra Modi ji, the city is very clean and green, and the roads and highways are very well maintained.
History and Culture
Note: It is near Patan, and takes about 3 hours from Ahmedabad by car. En route to Rani ki vav is the Modhera Sun temple. This whole trip will take the whole day, including shopping for the famous Patola Saris and Mashroo. No Restaurants in the village, so carrying food is advisable. Wear comfortable shoes.
Don’t get daunted by so many steps. I, at the age of 63 could go down all the way as the steps are very easy on the knees.
Note: Preferable time to visit is early in the morning. The shop offers very nice products made by inmates of the Sabarmati jail.
Note: The Calico museum is closed on Wednesdays. There are two timings – for textiles you have to be present by 10.15 AM sharp. Duration is two hours and you cannot leave midway. Only twenty people are allowed for this slot, so call and book in advance.
At 2.45 PM slot (ony 10 people), you can get to see the pichwais, bronzes and the miniatures. You are through by 4.30 PM. Bags and cellphones are strictly not allowed but carry some money as the museum shop has the most amazing collection of books. When you leave your bag behind, please remember to take carry your reading glasses for better viewing as I had forgotten my behind.
Note: This is 45 minutes away from the city and is closed on Mondays. The Sound and Light show is supposed to be very good here.
In Gandhinagar Sector 21, there is a shop called Pooja dhokla where you can call and ask them to prepare Dhoklas which are to die for. Their number is 07923221162 and 09978311333
AMDAVAD NI GUFA is an underground art gallery in Ahmedabad, India. Designed by the renewed architect B.V Doshi, it exhibits works of the Indian artist Maqbool Fida Hussain. The gallery represents a unique juxtaposition of architecture and art. The cave-like underground structure has a roof made of multiple interconnected domes, covered with a mosaic of tiles. On the inside, irregular tree-like columns support the domes.
Note: The Gufa has a really nice café outside called the Zen Café which has good coffee. The Gufa is also connected to the CEPT (Centre for Environmental Planning and Technology) also founded by B.V Doshi.
We had the good fortune of actually visiting and interacting with Mr. BV Doshi at his office. It was a very inspiring and enlightening experience.
The National Institute of Design (NID) is a design school in Ahmedabad, India. Business Week has placed NID in its list of top design schools in the world.
Note: One must visit their in house shop NIDUS which sells objects designed by both faculty and students.
One should also plan to go to Kankaria lake, which has a big zoo as well; Jama Masjid in the old city and of course, the beautiful Sarkhej Roza
The rich textiles
(master craftsman Bharat bhai with apprentice Anju, weaving the indigo Patola Sari)
Patola saris are a double ikat woven saris, usually made from silk. In the 11th century Kumarpal Maharaj brought 700 Weaver aritsan families from Jalana village near Aurangabad. Look out for natural dyes, alignement and sharpness of design. Also, if going for the silk, ask for triple A Chinese silk which is ‘of 8 yarn as against the Bangalore silk. The Patan saris you can wash at home using mild detergent as against the others which you will have to dry clean. The newer version of the Patola Saris have modified designs using pit looms. The Patan loom is at a slant so two people are required to use.
Note: If you cannot visit these weavers, you can call them in advance and request them to bring the Saris to you.
1)Patan Patola Heritage (Master craftsman)
Shilpguru Vinayak K. Salvi
Add: Patola House, Rani Ki vav road,
Near new Kalika Temple,
Patan (N.G.) 384265 India
Rahul V: +91 98987 75748
Savan M: +91 99794 62607
Tel:+91 2766: 232274 / 75, 231369
E-mail [email protected]
2) Patola of Patan PVT.LTD.
Patolawala farm House,
Out side fatipal gate,
Patan .(North Gujarat) – 384265 India.
Nirmal Salavi : +91 98981 43484
Tel:(+91-2766) 222182 / 232172
E-mail: [email protected]
3)Sanskruti Silk Patola
Near, Zalawad Chemicals
Joravarnagar – 363020
Dist: Surendrnagar, Gujarat
Pankaj D: +91 98985 25171
E-mail: sanskruti [email protected]
4)Dhanlaxmi Patola Art.
At.Somar -363 510 ta. Muli, D.Surendranagar,Gujarat.
B.V. Vaghela : +91 93276 42585,+91 90336 42562
E-mail: [email protected]
5)Maitik Khatri
M/s Gordhandas Ramchand Mashruwala
7/8/61, “HARSIDHDHI”
Koshwa ni pole Tankwado, Patan (N.G) 384 265.
+91 98258 77173
Tel: (02766) 230417
E-mail: [email protected]
Note: Please make sure that you purchase your printed Mushru from Maitik Khatri as in the city the price is almost three times more.
6)Kanu Bhai Salvi
5, Netaji Society
Opp bank of Baroda,
Karelibaug Vadodara.
Ph:+91 98246 13843
+91 2652 462210
E-mail: [email protected]
BANDINI SARIS AND AJRAK PRINTS
Bandini Saris are a speciality of Bhuj. First the cloth is washed and the starch is removed. They then stitch it in two folds. The design is traced on the material with green colour (Kaccha rang) . The cloth is then lifted with the artisans third finger of the left hand and they pinch the cloth between the right hand’s thumb and index finger. In between the thumb and the index finger there is a glass pipe which is 2 inches long and very thin through which a sharp cotton thread passes for tying the design. Almost 80% of the tying is done by women. After tying, the cloth is discharged to remove the printing green colour. They use acetic dyes on pure fabric while Napthal and vat dyes are used for cotton fabric. Vat dyes are very fast.
Ajrak is a natural geometric design which is hand block printed and special to this region. It also has stars and constellation as their inspiration.
Note: If you cannot visit Bhuj which is a seven hour journey, you could call in advance and request them to bring their Saris to you.
1.Dr. Ismail
Mohmed Khatri
Ajrakhpur, Paddhar, 370105
Ta: Bhuj Dist: Kachchh. Gujarat – India
Sufiyan : +91 94277 19313
Tel: 0091-2832-299786
E-mail: [email protected]
2.Sidr craft Jabbar Khatri (Master craftman)
Sarayawala matam
Nr. Safai Kamdar colony
Khatri chawk
Bhuj
Ph:+9198794 99891
3.Sohel Khatri
Bandini With Ajrak Print
Old Machhipith
Bhatiya Street
BhuJ Kutch – 370 001
Ph:+9198985 78658
DESIGNERS,TEXTILES AND CRAFTS
Ph: 09824069977, 07926578591
Note: Very high end designer
Ph:+919985 06666
Note: Exclusive high-end garments for weddings and special functions.
Ph: 09824059491
Note: Very fine embroidery work with one thread.
Ph:+9198243 03876
Note: Exquisite Zardosi and patch work
Ph:+9194299 55155
Note: Works with natural dyes and tie and dye.
Ashavali
B/h Rajpath club,
Opp. Avalon Crest,
Nr. Shashwat Bungalow,
Bodakdev,
Ahmedabad – 59
Ph: 09327030301
Email: [email protected]
Note: A variety of rich Gujrati textiles
A – 109, first floor, Sakar – VII
Nehru bridge corner
Ashram road, Ahmedabad
Ph: 079 26578042, 07926578200
Email: [email protected]
Shree Krishna centre
Near mithakali six roads
Navrangpura
Ph: 079 26422181
Note: Very good for solid colours and knitted long and short kurta’s
Ph:+9198252 45971
Note: A range of ahmedabadi textiles
Ph:07926407878
Ph: 079 27544444
City Centre
Ground Floor
Swastic four roads
For foodies!
Gujrati food Specialitiy Shops
1. Falguni
1, Hirak complex, Nehru park
Vastrapur, Ahmedbabd
Ph: 09825382002
Note: This is a great place for you to buy Khakras, Talod Khamand Dhokla mix, flavored mini Khakras, Handva, Mehti nu chatni (red powder), green chilli pickle Peanuts.
2. Indubhen khakrawala
Ph: 09898985560
3. Maharaj Samosas
Ph: 07926467128
Note: You get unique Dal samosas here.
4. Pooja Dhokla
Gandhi Nagar
Ph: 09978311333, 07923221162
Restaurants
1. Karnavati Club (You need a member to sign you in)
Sarbhara Restaurant\
Note: This was by far the best place we ate in in Ahmedabad. The experience was so good, we actually went there twice! The food is by the famous Saroj bahan and Tapan Chowksi.
2. House of MG
Agasiye and Green house
Opp. Sidi Saiyad Jali, Lal Darwaja
Ahmedabad-380001.
Ph: 79-25506946
Note: House of MG also has a lovely boutique hotel and a cute shop.
3. Vishalla
Opposite Vasna Tol Naka
Ph: 079 26602422, 079 26600919
Outdoor Gujrati food experience
Note: Keep in mind that you will have to sit on the ground and they have created a very rural environment for the authenticity of it. There is also a nice Museum of vessels that one can visit.
4. Swati snacks
Nr. Thakor bhai hall
Law Garden, Ahmedabad
Ph: 07926405900
Note: Excellent Chaat and Gujju food. Must have Dahi Pani puri, Panki and the Baked Khichdi. Their sugarcane juice is very popular too.
5. HL Vadapav
6. Jasuben Pizza
Note: This is a special Gujrati rendition of a pizza. It is in Khau Gali in Law Garden and you can find all kinds of street food here.
7. Manek Chawk
Note: This is a plaza of sorts in the middle of a market. This place comes to life only after 12 PM. You get food ranging from chocolate sandwich to pineapple pizza to special dosas to after dinner Kharek.
High-end Gujarati Caterers
Tapan Chowksi and Saroj bahen
Ph: +919825049908
Note: Tapan Chowksi and his mother, Saroj ben, are one of the best Gujju caterers available.
Lasti bahen
Ph: +919824040001
Note: Also a famous caterer who makes good Gujarati food.
Very high-end Wedding designer from Ahmedabad
Radhika Doshi Kathpalia
Ph: +919825044499
Note: Radhika Doshi does very high end weddings, and she is one of the top wedding designers in the country. She showed me around the city and we had some great times together!
My thoughts
All my senses were satiated in my 5 day trip to this beautiful and rich city. When I collect more money, I will go and buy some more Patolas and have some of Jasu bens pizza which I missed out on last time!
We also visited Baroda (Vadodara) where we saw the Agarwal art centre and magnificent Baroda Palace. If you do visit Baroda, the Raja Ravi Varma painting museum is a must see. Please check the timings before hand as when we reached there, it was shut, and we whiled our time shopping unnecessarily instead!
Thanks to my friends Sejal Jaykrishna, Radhika Doshi Kathpalia and Vibha Poddar, I could experience the city in its fullest. Kabeer Kathpalia and Namrata Jaikishan helped me with my blog.