Maru Amdavad – Vibrant Gujarat

Ahmedabad,originally called Karnavati,was given its name after Sultan Ahmed Shah. Legend says that after seeing a hare chase a ferocious dog, the ruler decided to establish his capital here and call it Ahmedabad.

From the magnificient Rani ki Vav… the find of the century, to Adalaj ki Vav, Amdavad ni Gufa, Sabarmati Ashram, Sidi Sayed ni Jali, Calico Museum and many more culturally rich sites, Ahmedabad is truly famous for its diverse cultural heritage.

For lovers of textile, it’s a heaven, where you can source your Patan Patolas, Bhandanis, Mushroo and Ashavali saaris.

For the foodies, one cannot get enough of the delicious Handva, Thepla, Khakra, Shrikhand, Oondhyo and of course the Dhokla.

The best times to visit is either during Navratri (end of September), Uttrayan (January 14th) which is the kite flying festival or during the colourful festival of Holi (March).

Thanks to Prime Minister, Shri Narendra Modi ji, the city is very clean and green, and the roads and highways are very well maintained.

History and Culture
  • RANI KI VAV (Queens step-well) is a wonderful example of a Royal step-well. It was built between 1022 and 1063 AD. It is supposed to have been built in the memory of Bhimdev, Mularaja’s son. Such step wells were once integral to the semi arid regions of Gujarat as they provided basic water needs for drinking, washing and bathing. These wells were also venues for colorful festivals and sacred rituals.
  • Note: It is near Patan, and takes about 3 hours from Ahmedabad by car. En route to Rani ki vav is the Modhera Sun temple. This whole trip will take the whole day, including shopping for the famous Patola Saris and Mashroo. No Restaurants in the village, so carrying food is advisable. Wear comfortable shoes.
    Don’t get daunted by so many steps. I, at the age of 63 could go down all the way as the steps are very easy on the knees.

  • MODHERA SUN TEMPLE is a temple dedicated to the Hindu Sun-God, Surya. It is situated on the bankS of the river Pushpavati, 25 km from Mehsana and 102 km from Ahmedabad. It was built in 1026 AD by King Bhimdev of the Solanki dynasty. To recreate the enchantment and splendor of ancient history and rich cultural traditions, the Modhera dance festival is held during the third week of January every year.
  • SABARMATI ASHRAM(also known as Gandhi Ashram, Harijan Ashram, or Satyagraha Ashram) is located in the Sabarmati suburb of Ahmedabad, Gujarat, adjoining the Ashram Road, on the banks of the River Sabarmati, four miles from the town hall. This was one of the residences of Mahatma Gandhi, who lived there for about twelve years along with his wife, Kasturba Gandhi.
  • Note: Preferable time to visit is early in the morning. The shop offers very nice products made by inmates of the Sabarmati jail.

  • THE CALICO MUSEUM OF TEXTILES, only thirty-one years old, is today justly regarded as one among the foremost textile museums in the world and an important Indian institution. Its outstanding collection of Indian fabrics exemplifies handicraft textiles spanning five centuries and attracts large numbers of visitors from the general public, as well as increasing numbers of Indian and international research scholars.

    Note: The Calico museum is closed on Wednesdays. There are two timings – for textiles you have to be present by 10.15 AM sharp. Duration is two hours and you cannot leave midway. Only twenty people are allowed for this slot, so call and book in advance.

    At 2.45 PM slot (ony 10 people), you can get to see the pichwais, bronzes and the miniatures. You are through by 4.30 PM. Bags and cellphones are strictly not allowed but carry some money as the museum shop has the most amazing collection of books. When you leave your bag behind, please remember to take carry your reading glasses for better viewing as I had forgotten my behind.

  • THE UMANG HATEESINGH HAVELI Jehsingh bhai in Wadi compound is an old and beautiful Haveli which is lit with oil lamps in the night. On request, Mr. Hateesingh can organize a dinner with a local classical dance.
  • THE SIDI SAIYYED MOSQUE, is one of the most famous mosques of Ahmedabad. As attested by the marble stone tablet fixed on the wall of the mosque, it was built by Sidi Saiyyed, an Abyssinian in the retinue of Bilal Jhajar Khan, general in the army of the last Sultan Shams-ud-Din Muzaffar Shah III of the Gujarat Sultanate in 1573.
  • ADALAJ KI VAV is a stepwell built in 1499 by Muslim king Mohammed Begda for Queen Rani Roopba, wife of Veer Singh, theVaghela chieftain. It is 5 stories in depth. This is only half an hour from the city.
  • SWAMINARAYAN AKSHARDHAM (Gandhinagar) is one of the largest Hindu temples in the Indian State of Gujarat. The temple complex, dedicated to Bhagwan Swaminarayan and built by Pramukh Swami Maharaj, combines devotion, art, architecture, education, exhibitions and research at one place which is spread over an area of 23 acres.
  • Note: This is 45 minutes away from the city and is closed on Mondays. The Sound and Light show is supposed to be very good here.

    In Gandhinagar Sector 21, there is a shop called Pooja dhokla where you can call and ask them to prepare Dhoklas which are to die for. Their number is 07923221162 and 09978311333

    AMDAVAD NI GUFA is an underground art gallery in Ahmedabad, India. Designed by the renewed architect B.V Doshi, it exhibits works of the Indian artist Maqbool Fida Hussain. The gallery represents a unique juxtaposition of architecture and art. The cave-like underground structure has a roof made of multiple interconnected domes, covered with a mosaic of tiles. On the inside, irregular tree-like columns support the domes.

    Note: The Gufa has a really nice café outside called the Zen Café which has good coffee. The Gufa is also connected to the CEPT (Centre for Environmental Planning and Technology) also founded by B.V Doshi.

    We had the good fortune of actually visiting and interacting with Mr. BV Doshi at his office. It was a very inspiring and enlightening experience.

    The National Institute of Design (NID) is a design school in Ahmedabad, India. Business Week has placed NID in its list of top design schools in the world.

    Note: One must visit their in house shop NIDUS which sells objects designed by both faculty and students.
    One should also plan to go to Kankaria lake, which has a big zoo as well; Jama Masjid in the old city and of course, the beautiful Sarkhej Roza

    The rich textiles

    photo 1

    (master craftsman Bharat bhai with apprentice Anju, weaving the indigo Patola Sari)

    Patola saris are a double ikat woven saris, usually made from silk. In the 11th century Kumarpal Maharaj brought 700 Weaver aritsan families from Jalana village near Aurangabad. Look out for natural dyes, alignement and sharpness of design. Also, if going for the silk, ask for triple A Chinese silk which is ‘of 8 yarn as against the Bangalore silk. The Patan saris you can wash at home using mild detergent as against the others which you will have to dry clean. The newer version of the Patola Saris have modified designs using pit looms. The Patan loom is at a slant so two people are required to use.

    Note: If you cannot visit these weavers, you can call them in advance and request them to bring the Saris to you.

    1)Patan Patola Heritage (Master craftsman)
    Shilpguru Vinayak K. Salvi
    Add: Patola House, Rani Ki vav road,
    Near new Kalika Temple,
    Patan (N.G.) 384265 India
    Rahul V: +91 98987 75748
    Savan M: +91 99794 62607
    Tel:+91 2766: 232274 / 75, 231369
    E-mail [email protected]

    2) Patola of Patan PVT.LTD.
    Patolawala farm House,
    Out side fatipal gate,
    Patan .(North Gujarat) – 384265 India.
    Nirmal Salavi : +91 98981 43484
    Tel:(+91-2766) 222182 / 232172
    E-mail: [email protected]

    3)Sanskruti Silk Patola
    Near, Zalawad Chemicals
    Joravarnagar – 363020
    Dist: Surendrnagar, Gujarat
    Pankaj D: +91 98985 25171
    E-mail: sanskruti [email protected]

    4)Dhanlaxmi Patola Art.
    At.Somar -363 510 ta. Muli, D.Surendranagar,Gujarat.
    B.V. Vaghela : +91 93276 42585,+91 90336 42562
    E-mail: [email protected]

    5)Maitik Khatri
    M/s Gordhandas Ramchand Mashruwala
    7/8/61, “HARSIDHDHI”
    Koshwa ni pole Tankwado, Patan (N.G) 384 265.
    +91 98258 77173
    Tel: (02766) 230417
    E-mail: [email protected]
    Note: Please make sure that you purchase your printed Mushru from Maitik Khatri as in the city the price is almost three times more.

    6)Kanu Bhai Salvi
    5, Netaji Society
    Opp bank of Baroda,
    Karelibaug Vadodara.
    Ph:+91 98246 13843
    +91 2652 462210
    E-mail: [email protected]

    BANDINI SARIS AND AJRAK PRINTS

    Bandini Saris are a speciality of Bhuj. First the cloth is washed and the starch is removed. They then stitch it in two folds. The design is traced on the material with green colour (Kaccha rang) . The cloth is then lifted with the artisans third finger of the left hand and they pinch the cloth between the right hand’s thumb and index finger. In between the thumb and the index finger there is a glass pipe which is 2 inches long and very thin through which a sharp cotton thread passes for tying the design. Almost 80% of the tying is done by women. After tying, the cloth is discharged to remove the printing green colour. They use acetic dyes on pure fabric while Napthal and vat dyes are used for cotton fabric. Vat dyes are very fast.

    Ajrak is a natural geometric design which is hand block printed and special to this region. It also has stars and constellation as their inspiration.

    Note: If you cannot visit Bhuj which is a seven hour journey, you could call in advance and request them to bring their Saris to you.

    1.Dr. Ismail
    Mohmed Khatri
    Ajrakhpur, Paddhar, 370105
    Ta: Bhuj Dist: Kachchh. Gujarat – India
    Sufiyan : +91 94277 19313
    Tel: 0091-2832-299786
    E-mail: [email protected]

    2.Sidr craft Jabbar Khatri (Master craftman)
    Sarayawala matam
    Nr. Safai Kamdar colony
    Khatri chawk
    Bhuj
    Ph:+9198794 99891

    3.Sohel Khatri
    Bandini With Ajrak Print
    Old Machhipith
    Bhatiya Street
    BhuJ Kutch – 370 001
    Ph:+9198985 78658

    DESIGNERS,TEXTILES AND CRAFTS
  • Anuradha Vakil (Designer)
    Ph: 09824069977, 07926578591
    Note: Very high end designer
  • Umang Hutheesing (designer)
    Ph:+919985 06666
    Note: Exclusive high-end garments for weddings and special functions.
  • Asif
    Ph: 09824059491
    Note: Very fine embroidery work with one thread.
  • Vibha Poddar (designer)
    Ph:+9198243 03876
    Note: Exquisite Zardosi and patch work
  • Soham Dave (designer)
    Ph:+9194299 55155
    Note: Works with natural dyes and tie and dye.
  • Radhika Lalbhaiodakdev,
    Ashavali
    B/h Rajpath club,
    Opp. Avalon Crest,
    Nr. Shashwat Bungalow,
    Bodakdev,
    Ahmedabad – 59
    Ph: 09327030301
    Email: [email protected]
    Note: A variety of rich Gujrati textiles
  • Gamthiwala fabrics for Ajrakh prints and Mashru
    A – 109, first floor, Sakar – VII
    Nehru bridge corner
    Ashram road, Ahmedabad
    Ph: 079 26578042, 07926578200
    Email: [email protected]

  • Bandhej
    Shree Krishna centre
    Near mithakali six roads
    Navrangpura
    Ph: 079 26422181
    Note: Very good for solid colours and knitted long and short kurta’s
  • Kasab (Govardhan Bhai)
    Ph:+9198252 45971
    Note: A range of ahmedabadi textiles
  • Sanskruti
    Ph:07926407878
  • Kapasi Handi crafts
    Ph: 079 27544444
  • Yogi shop for old and new Gujarat textiles
    City Centre
    Ground Floor
    Swastic four roads
  • Law Garden evening market.
  • For foodies!

    Gujrati food Specialitiy Shops

    1. Falguni
    1, Hirak complex, Nehru park
    Vastrapur, Ahmedbabd
    Ph: 09825382002

    Note: This is a great place for you to buy Khakras, Talod Khamand Dhokla mix, flavored mini Khakras, Handva, Mehti nu chatni (red powder), green chilli pickle Peanuts.

    2. Indubhen khakrawala
    Ph: 09898985560

    3. Maharaj Samosas
    Ph: 07926467128

    Note: You get unique Dal samosas here.

    4. Pooja Dhokla
    Gandhi Nagar
    Ph: 09978311333, 07923221162

    Restaurants

    1. Karnavati Club (You need a member to sign you in)
    Sarbhara Restaurant\

    Note: This was by far the best place we ate in in Ahmedabad. The experience was so good, we actually went there twice! The food is by the famous Saroj bahan and Tapan Chowksi.

    2. House of MG
    Agasiye and Green house
    Opp. Sidi Saiyad Jali, Lal Darwaja
    Ahmedabad-380001.
    Ph: 79-25506946

    Note: House of MG also has a lovely boutique hotel and a cute shop.

    3. Vishalla
    Opposite Vasna Tol Naka
    Ph: 079 26602422, 079 26600919
    Outdoor Gujrati food experience

    Note: Keep in mind that you will have to sit on the ground and they have created a very rural environment for the authenticity of it. There is also a nice Museum of vessels that one can visit.

    4. Swati snacks
    Nr. Thakor bhai hall
    Law Garden, Ahmedabad
    Ph: 07926405900

    Note: Excellent Chaat and Gujju food. Must have Dahi Pani puri, Panki and the Baked Khichdi. Their sugarcane juice is very popular too.

    5. HL Vadapav

    6. Jasuben Pizza

    Note: This is a special Gujrati rendition of a pizza. It is in Khau Gali in Law Garden and you can find all kinds of street food here.

    7. Manek Chawk

    Note: This is a plaza of sorts in the middle of a market. This place comes to life only after 12 PM. You get food ranging from chocolate sandwich to pineapple pizza to special dosas to after dinner Kharek.

    High-end Gujarati Caterers

    Tapan Chowksi and Saroj bahen
    Ph: +919825049908

    Note: Tapan Chowksi and his mother, Saroj ben, are one of the best Gujju caterers available.

    Lasti bahen
    Ph: +919824040001

    Note: Also a famous caterer who makes good Gujarati food.

    Very high-end Wedding designer from Ahmedabad

    Radhika Doshi Kathpalia
    Ph: +919825044499

    Note: Radhika Doshi does very high end weddings, and she is one of the top wedding designers in the country. She showed me around the city and we had some great times together!

    My thoughts
    All my senses were satiated in my 5 day trip to this beautiful and rich city. When I collect more money, I will go and buy some more Patolas and have some of Jasu bens pizza which I missed out on last time!
    We also visited Baroda (Vadodara) where we saw the Agarwal art centre and magnificent Baroda Palace. If you do visit Baroda, the Raja Ravi Varma painting museum is a must see. Please check the timings before hand as when we reached there, it was shut, and we whiled our time shopping unnecessarily instead!
    Thanks to my friends Sejal Jaykrishna, Radhika Doshi Kathpalia and Vibha Poddar, I could experience the city in its fullest. Kabeer Kathpalia and Namrata Jaikishan helped me with my blog.